Archive for the ‘News&Update’ Category

Horse Care in Early Spring

Saturday, March 1st, 2025
Blanketing:

Blanketed horses should be checked at least once a day and preferably more often to be sure blankets are secure and properly fitted. Many horses lose some weight during a hard winter, and blankets may need to be adjusted for this change. It’s a good idea to have several extra blankets in reserve in case one is torn or gets so wet and muddy that it needs to be taken off the horse for repairs.

Water:

Don’t count on horses eating enough snow to stay hydrated. In fact, few horses eat snow. They need constant access to fresh water that is not too cold. Some horses love to play in their water trough, even in really cold weather, and muddy hooves in the tank will mean frequent cleaning and refilling. If the area around the water source gets muddy, frozen, or slick, you may need to spread a thick layer of bedding or fine gravel in this spot to keep horses from slipping or bruising their hooves on frozen ruts.

Hay:

Though many people believe horses need extra grain in the winter, a steady supply of forage is actually what keeps horses warm through fermentation in the hindgut. If horses seem cold, increase the supply of moderate-quality hay. Watch to see that timid horses can access hay without being pushed away by more dominant animals.

Turnout:

Even on cold, windy days, most horses will benefit from some turnout time, especially if they have the opportunity to find shelter when they need it. Turnout and free exercise will help minimize the respiratory problems, stiffness, and boredom that may plague stalled horses.

Skin:

The warm, dark area under horse blankets is a prime spot for the growth of fungal or bacterial skin infections. Unblanketed horses are also at risk for skin infections because of wet, matted coats. Horses should receive at least a light grooming daily, and any skin infections should be treated immediately.

Hooves:

Don’t neglect regular trimming and resetting of shoes during the winter, even if horses are not working. Letting hooves get overly long invites chipping, cracking, and a major change in hoof angles with the first spring trim.

Vaccinations:

Check with your veterinarian as to the vaccinations your horse will need. Regardless of if he is staying on the farm, heading for spring shows, or getting prepped for a sale. Get these vaccinations on the schedule. By doing so, immunity will be strong by the time the horse is ready to travel in the spring.

Interested in learning more about horse care in early spring? Visit or call J & J Hay Farms for more information!

Article brought to you by Kentucky Equine Research.

Weight Gain on a Skinny Horse

Tuesday, February 25th, 2025

 

 

weight gainAll the horses in the barn get the same amount of feed every day; it makes feeding time much simpler. The warmbloods look super. Their weight is good, and their coats are gleaming. However, the one Thoroughbred in the barn who arrived a little thin six months ago has not put on any weight. In fact, he has lost body condition. He is getting grain just like the other horses, so what could be wrong? A veterinarian has thoroughly examined the horse and nothing appears to be wrong. Could it be as simple as insufficient caloric intake? What kind of changes can be made to his feeding program to encourage weight gain?

Sometimes, getting a thin horse to gain weight is simply a matter of increasing the caloric density of the diet. Other times, the diet may need to be higher in calories because of a medical, psychological or environmental problem.

What makes a horse a hard keeper?

The metabolic rate determines whether a horse is an easy or hard keeper. The variation between horses can be extreme.

Metabolism is the speed at which the body burns fuels for energy in order to maintain normal body functions. A slow metabolism can function on little input of fuel energy. Conversely, a fast metabolism needs a higher caloric intake in order to function properly. In general, members of certain breeds have faster metabolisms and need more food to maintain body condition than members of other breeds. For example, Thoroughbreds usually eat more per pound of body weight than draft horses. There is also variety within a breed. For instance, some Thoroughbreds are easy keepers while others require intense management to maintain body weight.

Temperament

Temperament often goes hand in hand with metabolic rate. A nervous horse may require more calories than a calm tempered one to maintain the same body condition. A tense horse may spend more time stall walking or weaving while the calm horse conserves energy stores.

A thin horse requires energy in the diet to ensure proper functioning of body processes and to build fat stores. Energy is a general term, yet many horsemen associate the word energy with mental energy. In this article, energy refers to the potential of a feed to fuel body functions and exercise. Weight gain in the horse can be attributed to protein or fat deposition. When a horse does not have enough calories or protein in the diet, the body will break down its own muscle tissue and deplete much of the adipose tissue or fat.

This results in emaciation with poor muscle definition and protruding bones. When the diet has excessive calories, the body will build muscle and adipose stores. The simplified solution to poor weight is to increase the caloric content of the diet while ensuring adequate protein content. The three nutrients which can supply energy to increase the caloric content of the diet in the horse are fiber, starch and fat. Each nutrient is utilized for energy in a slightly different way in the body which, depending on the horse, can be advantageous or not.

Fiber

Of the three major energy sources for the horse, fiber is the most important, most underestimated and the safest. Fiber is the major component of grass and hay. Some horses can maintain their weight on fiber sources alone. For the hard keeper, however, fiber alone will not maintain weight, but there are fiber feeding strategies that can increase the ability of the horse to derive energy from fiber.

The fiber portion of a plant consists primarily of cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin. Residing in the intestinal tract of the horse (cecum and colon) are billions of microbes which break down the fiber into a physiologically usable form, volatile fatty acids. These volatile fatty acids pass into the bloodstream of the horse where they can be transported to sites which need energy or tucked away as energy stores in the form of adipose tissue or muscle glycogen. Most of the cellulose and hemicellulose is easily digested by intestinal microbes (digestible fiber); the lignin is not digestible (indigestible fiber). Therefore, as lignin content of a feed increases, digestibility decreases.

Digestibility

As digestibility plummets, less energy is available to the horse. Lignin is the carbohydrate which gives the most structural support to a plant; rigid-stalked vegetation will contain more lignin than limp-stalked plants. For instance, there is little lignin in the soft leaves of the alfalfa plant (lucerne), but a much higher content of lignin is present in the rigid stem. If there is more leaf and less stem, or if the stems have not matured to become stiff and inflexible, the digestible fiber portion of the hay will be higher. A young plant harvested prior to maturity will have a lower lignin content than a plant allowed maturing before cutting.

Fresh Grasses

Fresh green spring grass is much higher in digestible fiber than parched summer grass. A horse can draw more energy from a high quality, early harvested hay (whether grass or legume) than a mature hay. Pasture is also a source of fiber. The digestibility of pasture is usually higher than hay because the curing process of haymaking results in digestible fiber losses.

When comparing the energy content of alfalfa (lucerne) and grass hays, alfalfa hay can provide a horse with more energy than grass hay of similar quality. On the other hand, low quality alfalfa hay which is composed of more stem than leaf is not a rich source of energy. More energy could be provided with grass hay that has very little stem and an abundance of visible green grass blades. Maximizing forage quality should be the first adjustment when trying to achieve weight gain.

Alternative Fibers

When quality fiber in the form of pasture or hay is not available, or if the horse does not readily eat hay, there are alternative fiber sources that may add fiber energy to the diet. The most common are beet pulp, soy hulls, wheat bran and alfalfa pellets or cubes. Beet pulp is about 80% digestible fibers (as compared to 50% for the average hay).

Soy hulls are a by-product of soybean production. Soy hulls are the skin of the bean (not the husk or pod) that is knocked off before oil is extracted from the bean. Commonly used in commercial horse feeds, soy hulls are slightly lower in digestibility than beet pulp. If a commercially designed horse feed has soy hulls listed as one of the primary ingredients, it will be a good source of highly digestible fiber.

Wheat bran is commonly thought of as a fiber source, but it actually has about the same amount of fiber as oats. It is a rich energy source because it is abundant in digestible fiber and starch. Wheat bran contains a large quantity of phosphorus, which can potentially disrupt the calcium and phosphorus ratio in the diet. On the flip side, wheat bran complements a diet high in alfalfa hay because of the calcium in the alfalfa.

Supplements

When good quality forage is unavailable or if hay intake is minimal or difficult for a horse, the diet of the horse can be supplemented with alfalfa pellets or cubes. Both products are made with alfalfa that has been harvested when digestible fiber is at its peak. Thus, alfalfa pellets and cubes provide energy to the horse. Alfalfa hay is often combined with timothy hay or whole corn plants to create cubes lower in protein and calcium content than pure alfalfa cubes. Caution is necessary when feeding pellets as some hay should still be fed if possible because of the important laxative effect of long fiber in the diet.

Supplements are available that may help with fiber digestion if the horse has a problem with the balance of the microbes in the cecum or colon. Yeast has been researched and found to improve fiber digestibility. Some commercial feeds come with yeast already added or yeast products are sold which can be top-dressed to the ration.

Probiotics are also thought to help improve fiber digestibility. Because the microbial population in the hindgut can shift out of balance, researchers believe the addition of more bacteria in the form of a probiotic restores bacterial stability, thereby improving digestion of forage. Also, commercial products are available that combine yeast and a probiotic for maximal regeneration and efficiency of the microbial population.

Starch

When a horse cannot maintain weight on hay or grass alone, the addition of starch in the form of grains has been the most traditional method of increasing the energy density of the diet. Obtaining energy from starch is actually more efficient because it is a simple enzymatic process. The end result has to feed fewer pounds of grain than hay to supply the equivalent amount of energy to the horse. Grains are an excellent source of starch for the horse, but they can be hazardous to the digestive tract. The starch molecules found in grains are complex polysaccharides that, when attacked by the enzyme amylase in the small intestine, can be broken down to very simple sugars, which are easily absorbed into the bloodstream.

From there, the sugars in the blood are distributed to where they may be needed by the body for energy or they may be stored as muscle glycogen or adipose tissue for future use. The limiting factor to starch digestion in the horse is the production of amylase in the intestinal tract. Amylase production has been found to be quite variable among horses.

Fermentation

Without sufficient amylase in the intestinal tract, much of the starch in the diet passes through to the large intestine where it is fermented. This is undesirable for two reasons. First, the amount of energy produced from starch by fermentation is less than the amount produced by enzymatic means. Second, excessive fermentation of starch drops the pH of the hindgut, which will decrease the efficiency of the bacteria that digest fiber and produce energy.

To further complicate the situation, not all starch molecules are created equal. Studies have shown that the oat starch molecule is small and easily digested by amylase. On the other hand, the starch molecules of corn and barley are large and not easily digested. If the corn or barley is treated with heat, it changes the nature of the starch molecule and makes it more easily digested by amylase.

Therefore, it is better to feed steam rolled or cooked barley and steam flaked or super flaked corn than their untreated counterparts. The process of pelleting involves heat which results in improved enzymatic digestion of corn; extruding improves it even more. When deciding on a commercial mix for the horse, look for one that uses grains that have been processed to allow for optimal digestion in the small intestine of the horse.

Feeding Dangers

While grain is a concentrated source of energy for the horse, there are some inherent dangers with feeding excessive amounts. When desperately trying to get a difficult horse to gain weight, it is often tempting to keep increasing the amount of grain being fed. Unfortunately, there is a point of no return when a horse gets too much grain in its digestive tract and the delicate balance of the microbial population is upset.

At this point, many horses also lose their appetite for forage and the situation worsens. No matter how much grain you feed, the horse will probably lose more weight. The minimal amount of forage a horse requires is 1% of its body weight. Therefore, a 1000 pound (450 kilogram) horse needs a minimum of 10 pounds (4.5 kilograms) of hay per day in order to maintain a reasonable balance of the microbial population. The rest of the diet should be designed around the minimal forage requirement.

Too Much Starch

The danger of feeding too much starch occurs because certain horses have a sensitivity to starch overload, perhaps precipitated by low amylase production or large meals of unprocessed grains. The cascade of problems begins with too much grain passing from the small intestine to the cecum and colon.

The starch in the grain is fermented by bacteria. The by-product of starch fermentation is lactic acid, a substance which alters the pH of the hindgut to be more acidic. The acidic environment kills the bacteria. As the bacteria die they produce endotoxins and laminitis trigger factors which can cause colic.

The laminitis trigger factors that pass into the blood can also induce laminitis. Horses that suffer starch sensitivity should not be given high grain diets. Kentucky Equine Research has developed EquiShure, a hindgut buffer to prevent acid build-up in the large intestine and maintain normal digestive function for horses on high-grain diets or those requiring weight gain.

Enzymes

As with forage digestion, supplements designed to aid in starch digestion or utilization have been developed. Although there has not been definitive research performed on the benefit of adding enzymes to the diet, the theory is well founded. If amylase is the limiting factor in small intestinal grain digestion, adding amylase to the feed may reduce the amount of grain channeling into the cecum and colon. Although there are a few feeds and supplements containing enzymes on the market, their efficacy is still questionable. Enzymes are proteins which are sensitive to acidic environments.

Such environments denature the enzymes thereby making them inactive. All feed passes through the acidic stomach before reaching the small intestine, so how much enzyme will actually reach the intestine intact and not be denatured? More research is necessary to establish the efficacy of feeding supplemental enzymes. Supplemental chromium may improve the metabolism of starch. The action of chromium does not have as much to do with aiding digestion as it does with the way the body handles the rise in blood glucose resulting from starch digestion and the consequential rise in insulin. Chromium yeast has been effective in reducing the incidence of chronic founder in some ponies and the incidence of chronic tying up in some horses with intolerance to high grain diets.

Fat

Almost all performance horses have some type of fat added to their diet, whether it is a slug of corn oil, a scoop of rice bran, a handful of linseed or a commercial high fat feed. Traditionally, fat was added to give the coat a healthy shine. However, recent research has brought to light an even better reason for feeding fat – it is an excellent energy source. Added dietary fat has proven to be an invaluable tool for packing weight on a hard keeper. As well as being a highly concentrated energy source, fat has several other advantages. Energy from fat does not make a horse flighty like energy from grain, and horses on high fat diets exhibit more endurance. There are differences between various fat sources which make one more useful than another in different circumstances.

Differences

There are major differences between vegetable fats (oils) and animal fats. The primary disadvantage of feeding animal fats is palatability; oils are much more appealing to the horse, although many commercial animal fats have flavorings added to improve the taste.

Corn oil typically has remained the star in palatability studies, but most oils are palatable when corn oil is not offered as a choice in these studies. The second obstacle is digestibility. Animal fat is only about 75% digestible while oil is closer to 95%. With small intakes of animal fat the digestibility difference is insignificant, but when higher levels are fed, that portion of indigestible fat can start to play havoc with the balance of microbes in the hindgut. Loose, runny feces are a sign that improper fat digestion is occurring. A third obstacle involves the long term maintenance of horses on animal fat. Horses may tire of the flavor and go off of an animal fat product before refusing a vegetable oil.

Common Fat Sources

Other common sources of fat include rice bran, linseed, sunflower seeds, full fat soybeans and coconut meal (copra meal). Rice bran is an excellent product for improving body condition and topline of thin horses because it is a combination of rice oil and highly digestible fiber. However rice bran will rapidly go rancid unless it is stabilised by extrusion, and unstabilised products should not be fed. Look for research proven stabilised rice bran which is a popular horse feed supplement in many countries. Linseed, sunflower seeds and other seeds can also provide fat in the diet, but a notable problem does arise when feeding vast amounts of seeds. As quantities of seeds fed increases, consumption will frequently slow, sometimes to the point of total refusal. Roasted soybeans are also great in small quantities. However, they will increase the protein percentage of the diet too much if fed in larger amounts.

A high-fat diet is an invaluable tool for achieving weight gain in a skinny horse as long as the gastrointestinal tract of the horse will tolerate the fat. Normally horses have no problem digesting fat as long as it is introduced gradually into the diet. The greatest advantage of using fat as an energy source is that it helps to avoid excessive intakes of grain. Dietary fat works best when fed in conjunction with grain and/or highly digestible fiber sources like beet pulp (not neglecting good quality hay or pasture). Many new feeds are appearing on the markets that incorporate high fat levels (> 6%) with high fiber ingredients like beet pulp or soy hulls.

Conclusion

Some horses are metabolically inclined to be hard keepers. Others have medical, psychological or environmental reasons for having difficulty in maintaining weight. Increasing the caloric intake of a horse is not problematic if careful attention is paid to the feedstuffs offered to the horse. Manipulation of the amount and variety of energy sources will often achieve the ideal body condition on the hard keeper.

Call the hay experts at J & J Hay Farms to discuss your needs and to help select the best hay for your budget and situation.

Article sourced from Kentucky Equine Research.

Toxic Plants for Horses: Meadow Saffron

Tuesday, February 25th, 2025

Toxic Plants for Horses: Meadow SaffronToxic Plants for Horses: Meadow Saffron – Why are horses entice by it? Some owners find tranquility in watching their horses graze. Others size up the same scene with uncertainty, even worry, as they tally the potential dangers that lurk in fields and fencerows: buttercups, acorns, red maple leaves, and black walnut bark. Which level of concern is most fitting? A new study on “poison preference” suggests that the reality may lie somewhere between blissful ignorance and unflagging vigilance.*

What is Meadow Saffron?

Meadow saffron is also known as autumn crocus because of its fall-flowering habit. Furthermore, it’s widely dispersed throughout Europe.  In addition, it’s in many areas of the United States, notably Kentucky, Maryland, New York, North Carolina, Vermont, New Hampshire, Oregon, and Utah.** 

Above all, the meadow saffron is not a true crocus, like those that come as signals of spring. As meadow saffron grows, broad leaves erupt from the ground, similar to those of the more familiar garden tulip. In early fall, once the leaves have died back, flowers erupt from the corms. As this photograph taken by Enrico Blasutto shows, each stalk produces a single flower that is typically light pink or purple. All parts of the plant are toxic.

The plant contains a substance called colchicine that inhibits cell division when eaten, potentially causing severe clinical signs. The gastrointestinal system associates with many signs of toxicity. For example, excessive salivation, difficulty swallowing, abdominal pain, and diarrhea.+ In addition, bloody urine and coughing have also been observed in horses.

Study Results:

In the study, a veterinary research team offered hay contaminated with meadow saffron to six mature horses, expecting them to avoid the poisonous plant. To their surprise, none of the horses steered clear of the meadow saffron despite having clean, uncontaminated hay available at all times.

“The behavior of these horses shows sharp contrast to the widely held belief that horses will voluntarily avoid toxic plants when safe plants are available,” said Catherine Whitehouse, M.S., a Kentucky Equine Research nutritionist.

“This study offered free-choice good-quality hay. As a result, suggesting that the intake of meadow saffron was likely not due to hunger but perhaps curiosity,” Whitehouse explained. “Most horses investigated and consumed the meadow saffron at the beginning of the feeding period and less so as the study progressed.”

Why were those horses enticed by the meadow saffron? According to the study, a variety of sensory cues. Therefore, taste preferences, and experiences all influence what a horse will and won’t consume.

“The bitter taste of meadow saffron may be palatable to horses,” she said. Colchicine and similar plant products have bitter flavors, often considered a protective mechanism for plants against grazing animals. Indeed, some studies show that horses seem to prefer—or are not put off by—bitter flavors, like fenugreek.

“Surpisingly, the odor of meadow saffron attracted horses. During the study, horses displayed investigative movements with their nostrils before ingesting the meadow saffron,” Whitehouse said.

Feed Composition:

Feed composition may provide another potential explanation why the horses preferentially consumed the poisonous plant. Horses reportedly prefer feeds rich in carbohydrates (sugars) and protein. The meadow saffron used in this study had higher crude protein and lower fiber fractions than the safe hay, which potentially increased palatability.

“In addition to the willingness of horses to consume toxic plants, this study shows that owners should carefully evaluate pastures and hay prior to feeding their horses,” Whitehouse advised.

In one case report from Europe, three horses developed colic within a few days of consuming hay that was heavily contaminated with meadow saffron. One of the horses died, and the necropsy revealed an abundance of hemorrhagic fluid in the thorax and abdomen. Thereupon, toxicology uncovered colchicine overload.++

Importance of Vitamin E:

In addition, when worrying what is in dried hay, be sure to consider what isn’t. “Above all, dried forages are frequently low in vitamin E. As a result, horses fed all-forage diets that do not include fresh forage should be supplemented,” explained Whitehouse. “When choosing a vitamin E supplement, look for a product with proven bioavailability.”

For example, Nano-E is a water-soluble formulation that features advanced nanotechnology. Above all, it supplies a rapidly absorbed natural-source of vitamin E.

In conclusion, questions about Toxic Plants for Horses: Meadow Saffron? Contact us at J & J Hay Farms by clicking here!

Resources:

Article by: Kentucky Equine Research

*Mueller, C., L. Sroka, M.-L. Hass, S. Aboling, A. These, and I. Vervuert. 2021. Rejection behaviour of horses for hay contaminated with meadow saffron (Colchicum autumnale L.). Journal of Animal Physiology and Animal Nutrition:13648.

**USDA, NRCS. 2022. PLANTS Database. Colchicum autumnale LNational Plant Data Team. Accessed March 6, 2022.

+Cortinovis, C., and F. Caloni. 2015. Alkaloid-containing plants poisonous to cattle and horses in Europe. Toxins 7:5301-5307.

++Kamphues, J., and H. Meyer. 1990. Meadow saffron (Colchicum autumnale) in hay and colic in horses. Tierarztl Praxis 18(3):273-275.

Forage Choices for Aged Horses with Dental Problems

Saturday, February 15th, 2025

Forage Choices for Aged Horses with Dental ProblemsWhat are good forage choices for aged horses with dental problems? Armed with a battery of six molars on each quadrant of the skull, horses with sound dentition process forages efficiently. Also called cheek teeth, the molars pulverize forages, increasing the surface area of the forage particles. Thus, allowing the most nutrients to be extracted from them as they flow through the gastrointestinal tract. When horses age, dental diseases crop up more frequently. As horses creep toward and into their 20s, molars begin to wobble in their sockets and eventually fall out. Special consideration must be given to meeting forage requirements when this happens.

Forage

In healthy horses with normal dentition, forage can be offered in numerous ways. For example, as pasture, traditional long-stem hay, chaff, hay cubes, hay pellets, and haylage. For aged horses with mild dental disease, a leafy high-quality hay or immature pasture grasses of moderate length can be offered. When more advanced dental disease sets in, such as the loss of molars, horses will begin to quid when offered these same forages. Quidding is a behavior in which long-stemmed forages are not chewed and swallowed normally but rolled into a ball and then dropped from the mouth.

“No harm lies in allowing aged horses to quid as long as they do not try to swallow the boluses of forage. Through trial and error, most horses figure out how to quid safely,” explained Kathleen Crandell, Ph.D., a nutritionist for Kentucky Equine Research. “Quidding may relieve boredom in horses that are likely not as active as they once were, and provides horses with valuable ‘chew time.’”

Quidding Benefits

Crandell mentioned another benefit to quidding. “With quidding, the forage bolus is coated with saliva or oftentimes moistened as horses drink. When moisture is added, a ‘hay tea’ is made within the mouth. Horses may be able to leach some nutrients from the forage.”

Quidding provides few, if any, actual calories to the horse. Appropriate forages must be sourced and prepared in a way that the horse derives most benefit.

Hay cubes, soaked. According to Crandell, this is probably the most common alternative forage offered to horses with poor teeth. When traditional hay is unsuitable, owners figure cubes may be the best substitute. If horses cannot chew the hay cubes adequately, however, there is little value in the cubes as horses cannot digest them well. Crandell, who has managed many old horses, breaks apart the cubes after soaking them. Some of her horses with poor teeth have refused full-sized cubes that would be difficult to chew, even when soaked.

Hay pellets, soaked.

For horses that hold their weight well, owners should look for pellets made from grasses, like timothy, Bermudagrass, or teff. Alfalfa pellets would be appropriate for horses that have a harder time maintaining body condition, as they contain more calories. “Pellets should soak long enough to fall apart completely,” Crandell explained. “I soak alfalfa pellets until they become a soft mush, usually one or two hours. The heaviness of the mush is dependent upon the amount of water used to soak them. If there isn’t enough water, the centers of the pellets will remain hard and be problematic for some horses.”

Beet pulp, soaked.

As a super fiber, beet pulp contains more calories than equal amounts of hay. “I prefer to combine beet pulp with hay pellets because hay is a more nutritionally balanced fiber source than beet pulp,” Crandell explained. Beet pulp can be purchased as shreds (molassed or unmolassed), pellets, or micronized flakes. For aged horses, shreds and pellets should be soaked, about an hour if using cold water and at least a half hour if using hot water. Micronized beet pulp soaks up water quickly and is often ready to feed in 10-15 minutes.

Chaff or chopped forage, soaked.

Depending on the country of origin, chaff can range from 1-3 cm in length. The shorter chaff may be somewhat easier to chew, but it won’t improve the digestibility.

Commercial senior feeds, soaked.

While many senior feeds are marketed as complete feeds, Crandell recommends adding additional fiber to the products. Add-ins may include beet pulp or hay pellets.

Soaking forages makes them easier to chew for horses with dental problems. Because soaking increases the volume of some of these forage products and creates larger meals, several small meals a day may be necessary to mimic natural feeding patterns.

Aged horses fed diets composed exclusively of forage should be fed a balancer pellet, which provides protein, vitamins, and minerals often deficient in forage-only diets. If alfalfa makes up a large part of the diet, a balancer pellet may not be necessary, but a high-quality vitamin and mineral supplement will be.

Hay Selection for Horses

Monday, February 10th, 2025

Long-Stem vs. Short-Stem Forages Hay Selection for HorsesAside from pasture, hay is the predominant forage consumed by horses. So, its value in equine diets is unquestionable. During certain times of year, hay may be the only forage available to horses. Therefore the selection of well-preserved hay harvested at the appropriate stage of maturity is critical.

When evaluating hay selection for horses,  it’s important to understand that hay can be classified into three general types: legume, grass, and mixed. Mixed hay is usually defined as a blend of grass and legume plants, though some hay producers and horse owners may define it as a combination of several grasses. Like most horse owners, Kathleen Crandell, Ph.D., has opened hundreds of bales of hay during her lifetime of owning and caring for horses. While most horse owners are mindful of the hay they offer their horses, Crandell is perhaps more vigilant than most. As a nutritionist with Kentucky Equine Research (KER), she understands the importance of good-quality hay.

Legume Hay

When evaluating legume hays, Crandell first establishes the type of hay. Although the most popular legume used among horse owners is alfalfa, other legumes such as red or crimson clover, lespedeza, birdsfoot trefoil, and peanut hay are often fed, and these provide horses with high-quality nutrients.

Evaluating:

Evaluating hay requires a thorough visual appraisal. Because the outside of a bale can be misleading, especially if it was situated on the edge of a stack with exposure to the sun or other elements, appraisal necessitates breaking open several bales. Small bales can be opened easily, but the same cannot be said for larger round bales. Pure legumes are rarely roundbaled, but if faced with tightly wound round bales that cannot be opened, an instrument designed to remove core samples from the inside of hay bales, called a hay probe, can be used. Probes are used to collect hay samples for chemical analysis and nutrient determination. Hay collected in the probe should be assessed just as carefully as that in entire bales.

Crandell next evaluates the color of the hay. “It might be bright green, brownish-green, or pale green, or it might not be green at all; perhaps it is yellow. Color is not the end-all, be-all in determining hay quality, but it can be a clue to how it was made. If it is bright green, then I know the hay was likely cut at an appropriate time, that it was probably not rained on after cutting, and that it dried quickly and was baled in a timely manner. When baled under optimal conditions, the most nutrients are preserved.”

It is not unusual to run into bales that have both green and brown plant material, according to Crandell. If the leaves are brown, the hay is likely to have less nutritional value, as leaves deliver the most nutrients. If, on the other hand, the occasional stem is brown but the leaves are green and well-anchored to the stem, then the hay is probably still nutritious.

“Yellow, brown, or otherwise faded hay indicates that it was made at a mature stage, laid in the field longer to dry, or possibly rained on after being cut in the field, all of which would indicate lost nutrients through leaching by the sun or rain,” said Crandell.

Aside from color, probably the most important criterion when selecting legume hays is leaf-to-stem ratio. A profusion of leaves and few stems indicates that the hay was made at the desired maturity and that few leaves came loose during baling. The opposite is often true with legumes, and these hays sometimes have an abundance of stems and few leaves. This usually means that the leaves came off during baling or when the hay was lying in the field.

“I also look at stem coarseness, as this tells me the stage of maturity of the plants when they were harvested. The stem contains few nutrients and a great deal of indigestible fiber. Aside from marginal nutrition, if the stems are too mature, horses do not particularly like to eat them,” added Crandell.

The presence of mold, unusual growths on leaves, insects, and suspicious plants is noted. With alfalfa, Crandell recommends a thorough scan of multiple bales for blister beetles. Because these lethal insects often swarm, it is possible for only a few bales to be infected.

“I might shake a couple of handfuls to see how much dust flies off. Almost all hay has some dust, but if a large cloud erupts, it’s probably best to pass but imperatively so if you have a horse with a respiratory ailment aggravated by dust. I almost always try to smell the hay to see if it is fresh, stale, or moldy. If the hay was baled wet, it might have a distinct smell that results from caramelization of proteins,” remarked Crandell.

Other Legumes

While alfalfa is the most well-known legume hay, clover hays are appropriate for horses, even if they are not as popular with horse owners as alfalfa. One reason horse owners often avoid clover is its propensity for mold. Getting clover to dry quickly in the field is challenging for growers, and premature baling of damp hay is the primary reason clover hay is sometimes moldy.

From a nutritional standpoint, clovers and alfalfa are very similar. Higher in calcium and protein, and more calorie-dense than grass hays. Red clover is the most common clover hay because it grows taller than white clover and thus provides more yield per acre. Crimson clover is another tall-growing type. But, it tends to be higher in indigestible fiber than red clover. Palatability is usually not an issue. However, as horses are inclined to love the taste of clover and eat it well.

Certain horse owners associate clover with excessive salivation. They mistakenly believe that it is the clover plant that causes horses to slobber. But, the causative agent is actually a mycotoxin produced by a fungus that grows on clover. Known as slaframine poisoning, excessive salivation is not life-threatening.

Grass Hays

Popular grass hays can be divided into two basic groups, cool-season and warm-season. In general, cool-season grasses are more palatable to horses. But, warm-season grasses are accepted by horses, especially by those accustomed to them. The most common cool-season grasses in the United States are timothy, orchardgrass, ryegrass, fescue, redtop, reed canary grass. Occasionally bluegrass in the East; and wheatgrass, blue grama, bluestem, and meadow in the Midwest and West. Warm-season grasses include Bermuda grass (referred to as coastal), bromegrass, and most recently teff.

Categories

A special category of grasses are cereal hays. These hays are made from leaves, stems, and grains of oat, barley, and wheat plants. A good quality cereal hay is harvested when the grain is immature (soft dough stage) and the leaves and stems are still green, and therefore higher in digestible nutrients. If the cereal hay is harvested after the grain is removed, it is no longer considered hay but straw. Oat hay is the most common cereal hay fed in the United States, and if harvested at the right time, it is quite palatable to horses.

For some horse owners, the gold standard among grass hays is timothy due largely to its extreme palatability. Though Crandell agrees that timothy is appetizing to most horses, she also believes “the most palatable hay to a horse is the type he is accustomed to.” Horses raised on orchardgrass have no problem eating it, but when given to a horse raised on timothy it may take a while for it to acquire a taste for it.

Fescue

Fescue has gained much attention over the last couple decades for its sometimes detrimental effects on pregnant mares when it is infected with an endophyte fungus. As a pasture grass, horses seem to consume more of it in the fall after a frost has hit and the sugar content has risen. As hay, it would be harvested in the spring and summer. Palatability might not be an issue for certain horses

Crandell uses the same process of evaluating grass hays as she does for legumes. To determine the type of grass, seed heads are the most telling. Though blade characteristics are also useful. “Fescue blades roll up lengthwise when dried. While orchardgrass blades dry open, so it is very easy to distinguish these two plants. Reed canary grass is distinctive because it has a broader blade than most hays. Yet it is uncommon enough for few horse owners to be able to identify it,” said Crandell.

Distinguishing

Distinguishing hay types is important, if only from the standpoint of purchasing the appropriate hay. “Many orchardgrass hays are sold as timothy because the average horse owner does not know the difference in the seed heads. On the east coast of the United States, I would say a mix of grasses in a hay is more common than any pure single-species hay like you find on the opposite coast,” remarked Crandell. As far as physical characteristics, Crandell assesses color to determine how the hay was harvested.

The color is somewhat dependent on the type of hay. Timothy hay is usually lighter in color than orchardgrass unless the orchardgrass is harvested at a very mature stage. An overall brownish tinge could mean the hay was baled too wet and went through a caramelizing stage. Warm-season hays are typically not as attractive as the cool-season types, as they are often more golden in color. Cereal hays should be light green in color; a yellow, straw-like color would indicate that the hay was harvested too late and will be of lower nutritional value.

She then estimates plant maturity. “Maturity is judged by the number and age of the seed heads, ratio of leaves and stalks, color, and texture. I grab a handful or two to get an idea of the hay’s texture. Early-maturity hays are softer to the touch than late-maturity ones.” As with legumes, Crandell checks for dust and unusual odor indicative of mold.

Mixed Hays

The term mixed hay can be an ambiguous one, which makes clarification essential. Mixed grass hays usually include a medley of grasses. Some grown specifically for hay intended for horses and others not. While common grass/legume mixes include timothy/alfalfa, orchardgrass/ alfalfa, and orchardgrass/clover. “I have seen lovely bales of the classic timothy/alfalfa mix. Specifically, the orchardgrass/red clover mix is especially useful for picky eaters. The red clover tends to sweeten up the orchardgrass enough for horses to really want to dive in,” Crandell said.

Mixing grasses with a legume has two notable benefits. The first involves improvement of the land. Legumes add nitrogen to the soil, so growing legumes with grasses can cut down on fertilizer needs and growing costs. The other advantage involves palatability, as adding a legume to a grass can increase sweetness and consumption. Introduction of a legume also improves the quality by increasing energy, protein, and calcium.

Some horse owners prefer grass/legume mixes over pure legume. A mixture more or less averages the content of certain key nutrients to make it appropriate for different classes of horses. A practical advantage occurs as well. When grasses and legumes are grown together it is more difficult for horses to pick out the tasty portions, as they could if fed a flake of legume and a flake of grass.

Understanding the ins and outs of hay selection is an important aspect of horse ownership. The true test of hay quality rests with the horses, though, and if they offer up their approval by consuming it readily, selection was a success.

Micro-Max is a low-intake concentrated source of vitamins and minerals for mature horses. Micro-Max is ideal for horses that maintain body weight on diets composed entirely of forage or forage and small amounts of concentrate. Learn more.

Source:

Old Horses, Cold Weather, and Forage Intake

Tuesday, February 4th, 2025

Old Horses, Cold Weather, and Forage Intake: Fresh grasses provide old horses with much of the nutrition they require to maintain health. As pasture quality wanes in the autumn, owners of old horses often begin to worry about providing sufficient forage. This is true especially if dental problems make hay-chewing difficult. Horses with missing or diseased teeth frequently chew grass more easily than hay. Consider these three strategies to increase fiber intake as fresh pasture becomes scarce.

Use pelleted or cubed forages:

Horses that cannot get nutrients from hay because of poor dentition often do well on hay pellets or cubes. Alfalfa (lucerne) hay makes up these products. However, pellets and cubes made from grass hays, such as timothy, are available.

“Horses generally find hay pellets and cubes palatable,” noted Catherine Whitehouse, M.S., a nutrition advisor with Kentucky Equine Research (KER). Dampen these products. Soften them prior to feeding. “Pellets and cubes can be soaked using different amounts of water to suit an individual horse’s preference, as some horses can be finicky about the wetness of a feed.” Cubes might have to be broken apart and moistened thoroughly in order for horses to get the most out of them.

Consider the use of chopped forage:

Several companies offer alfalfa and timothy hay in chopped form, with individual pieces of forage only a few inches long. Chopped forage is easier for horses to chew and swallow. “These products are sometimes coated lightly with a vegetable oil. For example, canola oil. It reduces dust. The canola oil is an additional source of calories, for horses with weight-maintenance issues” explained Whitehouse.

Find a well-fortified complete feed:

A “complete” feed contains rich energy and fiber sources. These are designed to be fed either without hay or with very little hay (1-2 lb; 0.45-0.9 kg). Complete feeds are pelleted or textured. Fiber sources include beet pulp, alfalfa meal, and soy hulls. The hindgut readily ferments the,. Complete feeds, when offered without long-stem forage, are meant to be fed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, which will usually be 1-2% of the horse’s body weight, said Whitehouse.

Many horse owners are not familiar or comfortable with feeding this much bagged product. Owners may be hesitant. However, they should remember the deficit must be filled with another source of energy. For example, in this case the complete feed. Split complete feed into three or four meals per day.

Dental Dysfunction/Quidding:

Dental dysfunction in older horses is usually progressive, occurring slowly over time. In addition to annual or semi-annual dental examinations, paying careful attention to chewing habits and body condition will often provide clues as to when alternative forage sources are necessary. Quidding is a telltale sign of dental problems, and occurs when a horse takes a bite of forage, wets it with saliva, rolls it within the mouth, and then spits it back out.

When a horse begins to show signs of quidding, it is best to move on to chopped or cubed hay, both of which have intermediate fiber length. When chewing these becomes more difficult for the horse, pelleted forage, which has the shortest fiber length is the next choice.

Add vegetable oil to any or all of these forage sources. “Choose an oil with a favorable fatty acid profile such as canola or soybean oil. Alternatively,  added stabilized rice bran to the ration,” suggested Whitehouse.

Do you have question about Old Horses, Cold Weather, and Forage Intake? Contact us at J & J Hay Farms by clicking here!

Article brought to you by KER.

 

Check Broodmare Hay for Fescue

Monday, January 20th, 2025

Broodmare eating HayCheck Broodmare Hay for Fescue: Fescue…what’s not to love? Landowners throughout North America and in other parts of the world such as New Zealand and Australia enjoy its numerous benefits. The perennial’s hardiness allows it to thrive despite heavy hoof traffic, intense grazing, and adverse growing conditions.

Are you asking yourself about that slight problem of endophyte contamination? Slight, it’s not; in fact, it has been estimated that 75% of all fescue is infected with the specific endophyte Acremonium coenophialum.

Endophyte Contamination:

An endophyte is a fungus that grows inside another plant without detriment to the host plant. In some instances, the fungus actually provides benefit to the host plant. Such is the case with Acremonium coenophialum. The fungus produces alkaloids, and these alkaloids protect the plant against certain natural insults such as insects and nematodes. Because of their increased durability, the plants become more tolerant to marginal soils and suboptimal growing conditions.

Most mare owners know the dangers of grazing late-pregnant mares on endophyte-infected tall fescue. The grass causes legions of problems, collectively called fescue toxicosis, in broodmares. Issues include prolonged gestation (as long as 13 to 14 months), foaling difficulties, thickened placentas (including “red bag” emergencies), and a decrease or complete absence of milk upon delivery. The ill effects of tall fescue consumption can continue beyond foaling frustrations, as affected mares may be hard to get back in foal, leaving breeders with a smaller foal crop the following year.

Removing mares from endophyte-infected tall fescue 90 days before foaling has been an effective management technique, and newer varieties of tall fescue are endophyte-free, giving breeders peace of mind. These newer varieties, however, do not possess the resiliency of their forebears. Not only are they more susceptible to adverse conditions, these varieties seem to be more difficult to maintain.

While horsemen are usually most concerned with guaranteeing that pastures contain no fescue or endophyte free fescue, the problem-causing fungus can get into a mare’s diet unintentionally. This is likely to happen in one of two ways, as hay or as bedding.

Providing the Right Hay:

Providing hay is often a staple of broodmare management in winter months. Pasture plants are dormant. Baled Hay usually meets forage requirements. High-quality grass hay is usually a suitable choice for broodmares, as it satisfies nutrient requirements without the extra calories and cost of alfalfa hay.

Grass hay is rarely pure, however. The exception is popular forage types such as timothy or orchardgrass. They have a higher level of purity. Grass hay is “mixed.” Mixed grass hay may include fescue. Especially if it is purchased from an unknown buyer. Endophyte might infect that fescue. While fescue is easy to identify in pastures and hayfields, it tends to blend with other grasses as it dries. Like other grasses such as bluegrass and orchardgrass, tall fescue leaves roll into a tight cylinder during the curing process, making a positive identification problematic. Commercial tests are available to detect the fungus in living plants. However, there is no such test for the presence of the endophyte in hay.

Fescue is rarely raised exclusively as hay intended for horses. Even when it is, it is usually harvested at a late stage of maturity when palatability and nutrient value are low. Because of palatability issues, horses often waste it, preferring to lie in it than eat it.

Therefore, when purchasing hay for pregnant mares, be sure it is free of fescue. If fescue is discovered, double-check that the plants were harvested from an endophyte-free stand. The hay should be fed to other horses or livestock if this cannot be ascertained definitively. Endophyte-infected fescue causes few side effects in non-pregnant mares.

Horse Bedding:

Some forage that is unsuitable for consumption by horses ends up being used as bedding. This is a common practice on large farms where many horses are given fresh bedding each night or when straw is in short supply.

Fescue is sometimes chosen as such a bedding. (As a result of its poor nutritional quality.)

In some circumstances, mares may consume the bedding, putting themselves at risk for fescue toxicosis. Horses will generally gravitate toward high-quality forage. However, it is not unusual for some to chomp through a fair amount of bedding. In fact, more than a few horses cannot be bedded on straw because of their penchant for consuming this seemingly bland-tasting forage. As a precaution, an experienced agronomist or other specialist should inspect discarded or inferior forage before it is used to bed down the stalls of mares in late gestation.

Further, used bedding that has been stripped from stalls should not be strewn on fields grazed by mares. Seed may fall from the dried plants and germinate in the field. As a result, contaminating the fields and giving cause for complete renovation of pasture areas, if they’re to be used for grazing mares. In summary, remember these key points when fine-tuning a management program for broodmares.

Key Points:

• Scrutinize hay for fescue just as carefully as you would analyze pasture. This is especially true for farms that purchase hay from multiple suppliers. The endophyte that causes fescue toxicosis is just as detrimental in hay as it is in fresh forage.

• Choose bedding wisely. Baled pasture clippings may be an economical bedding choice. However, be sure no fescue plants are intermixed with the other grasses. Even though fescue is not a particularly enticing forage for horses, some mares might stray from their heaps of high-quality hay to add variety to their diets.

• Do not spread soiled bedding that includes fescue waste on pastures that may one day be grazed by mares. The plants may contain seeds that could germinate and grow.

For more Tips to Check Broodmare Hay for Fescue, visit us at J&J Hay Farms!

Article Source: Kentucky Equine Research

 

Cold-Weather Horse Diets

Friday, January 10th, 2025

Cold-Weather Horse Diets - a white horse is eating hayCold-Weather Horse Diets: Those cold winter months of mud, slush, and frozen ground…owners dread them. The horses? For the most part, they don’t seem to care. In fact, many seem to be energized by the crisp air and chilly breezes.

Very young, very old, or ailing horses may need specific changes in stable routine. However, healthy horses with an intact coat can usually tolerate winter weather with few problems. Especially if owners pay attention to basic feeding and management principles.

Water

If it’s not the most important winter consideration, water is at least near the top of the list. Even when the horse is not working and sweating, water consumption is necessary to prevent impaction of ingested material in the intestinal tract. Horses naturally tend to drink somewhat less water when the temperature drops. As a result, make every effort to ensure sufficient intake. Owners can start with these management steps:

Provide a constant supply of clean water that is not too cold. Experts disagree on the exact “favorite” water temperature. Horses will drink water that is quite cold. They tend to ingest a larger amount when water is warmed to around 45 or 50 degrees F (4 to 15 degrees C). Water that is hot to the touch is not suitable.

Make sure water sources aren’t frozen. For example, by using insulated buckets, installing an electric heater, or frequently providing warmed water. NOTE: being shocked will back horses off a water tank, even if they are extremely thirsty.

If you have a heated water tank that horses are not using, check and check again (use an extremely sensitive voltmeter, or schedule a visit from an electrician) to be certain there is no “stray” voltage. Some horses will react to voltage that is too slight for humans to detect, while other horses (and most cattle) don’t seem to be bothered.

Add water to feed. Give occasional bran mashes. Sprinkle salt on feed to stimulate a thirst response. These are all useful techniques. However, these measures by themselves may not ensure adequate water intake. Also, don’t count on horses eating snow to stay hydrated. Melting snow in the mouth and stomach uses so much energy that it’s difficult for the horse to maintain a safe body temperature.

Hay

Fermentation of fiber in the horse’s hindgut is the major heat source that keeps horses comfortable through the colder months. Therefore, a steady supply of hay is crucial. While many horses continue to graze some pasture, hay usually provides the majority of winter forage.

Type and amount of hay will vary depending on a horse’s size, metabolism, and workload. At a minimum, start with the basic guideline of feeding enough hay to equal about 1.5 % to 2% of the horse’s body weight (around 15 to 20 pounds (6.8 to 9 kilograms) a day for a horse weighing 1000 pounds (453 kilograms)), and increase as needed when the temperature drops.

Types of Horses

Easy keepers and horses doing minimal work get along well on medium-quality grass hay (can contain a few weeds, may have been cut when a little more mature than optimum).

Horses with average metabolisms will do better on good-quality grass hay (mostly free of weeds, made from grass that was not over-mature at cutting).

Heavily exercised horses or those with special needs (older horses, thin horses, horses recovering from illness) may need a grass-legume mix or even a straight alfalfa hay.

As a general rule, shivering horses that regularly clean up every scrap of hay probably need to have their hay ration increased. Horses that simply enjoy eating will also consume every flake in sight. Increasing their ration is not a good idea.

You can tell the difference by using a weight tape every few weeks through the winter to track changes, uncovering the situation of heavy-coated horses that appear fat when they are actually losing weight. Likewise, horses that leave some hay untouched may seem to have been overfed. It is also possible they are leaving weeds, rough plants, or flakes containing mold. Inspect the rejected material. Purchase better-quality hay if necessary.

Stalled horses have plenty of time to pick through their hay, munching a few mouthfuls now and then as the hours pass.

Pastured horses that eat hay in a group setting need to be monitored. Be sure that low-status animals have adequate access to hay. Very timid horses may need to be fed hay separately or in smaller groups. Spacing hay piles widely in the field and offering several extra piles can minimize this problem.

Concentrates

Winter diets usually include concentrates for two reasons: nutrients and energy. Hay and dormant grasses don’t have the same nutritional value as fresh pasture. Overcome this lack by feeding a fortified sweet feed or pelleted product.

Concentrates also pack a lot more energy than grass or hay. Horses that are eating plenty of good-quality hay and are still not maintaining their weight may need additional calories in cold, windy, damp weather.

As with hay selection, the type of concentrate depends on the individual horse, and most feed dealers offer a variety of choices to meet the needs of young, mature, old, working, or breeding horses. Feeds containing beet pulp or soy hulls, so-called super fibers, include highly digestible fiber along with more traditional sources of energy. Corn oil, rice bran, and other fat products boost the caloric density of a horse’s ration.

Overweight horses that need vitamins and minerals in a low-calorie package can be given a supplement that provides only these nutrients. Remember to feed no more than about five pounds of pellets or sweet feed at one time. Break larger feedings into several small meals spaced throughout the day.

Beyond the basics

Water, hay, concentrated feed…a winter diet containing these elements is a good starting point. Good managers, however, ensure the comfort of the horses in their care by attending to a few more details.

  • Horses should have access to shelter from extreme weather. This can be a barn, run-in shed, windbreak, or even a grove of trees. As with access to hay, low-status horses may be blocked from shelter by more aggressive animals. Alternative grouping may be necessary.
  • Owners should be sure horses have proper dental care and periodic dewormings so that feed can be properly digested and utilized.
  • Daily inspection of horses in winter months should include a light grooming, an all-over check for injuries, and an inspection for skin problems.
  • Water consumption and manure consistency should be monitored (very dry manure is a sign that the horse may be becoming dehydrated).

In conclusion, J & J Hay can help to answer horse-health and hay related questions.

Article Source: Kentucky Equine Research

Managing Horses on Declining Pasture

Sunday, January 5th, 2025

Managing Horses on Declining PastureManaging Horses on Declining Pasture: As the growing season winds down or as drought sets in, horse owners must provide horses with an appropriate alternative forage to fulfill fiber requirements. In most cases, this involves the use of hay.  Although other products such as haylage or hay cubes are appropriate and sometimes fed.

The question that looms large for most owners is when to offer alternative forage. The pasture reveals a couple of important clues, namely growth rate and plant health.

Pasture Tips:

Owners will know when pasture growth slows as there will be less need for routine mowing and maintenance. Depending on stocking rate—that is, the number of horses on any given acreage—pasture might withstand a slowdown in growth rate and continued grazing. So long as more land is allotted per horse. A large, seven-acre paddock that comfortably sustained five horses in peak growing season might support three as pasture growth declines.

“Observation of grazing behavior might be a tipoff, too. If horses spend more time grazing, they are likely finding less to eat. In periods of lush growth, you might catch horses resting more often. It is easier for them to satisfy their appetites and their need to graze,” said Kathleen Crandell, Ph.D., a nutritionist with Kentucky Equine Research (KER).

Plant health is a more obvious indicator. As autumn segues into winter or as rainfall decreases, pasture grasses often turn brown and unpalatable. During this time growth is almost assuredly arrested. Horses will snack on these remnants, but more nutritious forage should be offered.

Supplementation:

“Owners ought to offer hay as soon as they feel horses are not consuming sufficient pasture to meet daily forage requirement, which is about 1.5-2% of body weight daily,” advised Crandell.

For a 15.2-hand, 1,100-lb (500-kg) horse, that would be 16.5-22 lb (7.5-10 kg) of hay each day. Keep in mind, though, that this amount will likely satisfy the horse’s complete forage requirement.

“If the horse is still nibbling away at pasture much of the day, it might need only a portion of this. If the horse leaves hay in favor of pasture, then too much hay is probably being fed at the time. Gauge requirement through consumption,” recommended Crandell.

To maintain weight, many horses, in combination with their forage, will be consuming a well-fortified concentrate feed that supplies all of the protein, vitamins, and minerals required for their well-being. Those that do not should be fed a vitamin and mineral supplement. For example, Micro-Max, developed by Kentucky Equine Research and available in the U.S. and other regions. Micro-Max supplies minerals that have been chelated or proteinated, which increases their digestibility and allows horses to derive maximum benefit from them. Horse owners in Australia should look for Gold Pellet, Nutrequin, or Perform.

One vitamin that is particularly deficient in diets composed of preserved forages such as hay is vitamin E, an important antioxidant in the horse’s immune arsenal. The most effective source of supplemental vitamin E is d-alpha-tocopherol or natural vitamin E. Nano-E is a natural-source vitamin E supplement. It possesses a unique delivery action, nanodispersion. Consequently, this allows the vitamin to hit target tissues more quickly than other vitamin E supplements. Nano-E is available worldwide.

Don’t know where to begin with supplementation?

J & J Hay can help to answer horse-health and hay related questions.

Source: Kentucky Equine Research

5 Tips to Get Your Horse to Drink More Water During Winter

Monday, December 30th, 2024

Get Your Horse to Drink More Water During WinterThe following guide will help you to get your horse to drink more water during winter. Water is the most essential aspect of any horse’s diet. Without adequate water intake, horses will not survive.

An adult horse (1000 lbs.) in a cool, comfortable environment that is not working, or lactating, needs a minimum of seven to ten gallons of fresh, clean water every day. The amount of water required is closely related to the amount of feed the horse has eaten. Most horses will drink 1.5 quarts of water per pound of dry feed intake. If a horse is consuming 20 pounds of dry hay per day, the horse would be expected to drink approximately 7.5 gallons of water each day. The water requirement is higher if the horse is in training, nursing a foal, growing, pregnant or in a hot/humid environment. The best way to ensure adequate water intake is to always provide free access to fresh, clean water.

Issues associated with water intake during the winter months usually revolve around horses not drinking enough water. Water that has frozen or is near freezing will result in decreased intake. Water consumption reaches its maximum when the temperature is maintained between 45 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Similarly, horses that must eat snow as their only water source, will not eat enough snow to satisfy their necessary water requirement completely. This decreased water intake can result in digestive upset or “colic.” Associated with feed material becoming impacted (stuck) in the digestive system. Therefore, the water source should be free-flowing or heated to prevent freezing and guarantee the horse is drinking enough water. When installing a heating device for water, be certain that any electrical unit is properly grounded to prevent electrical shock of the horse. Horses are very sensitive to electrical shock and will quit drinking to avoid shock.

Here are few easy tips to assist with increasing your horse’s water intake:

  1. Wet your horse’s feed at a ratio of 2 parts feed to 1 part water. This can increase the hydration status of your horse.
  2. Offer a wet mash, every day, of soaked beet pulp shreds or pellets, timothy forage pellets or alfalfa forage pellets. If you are concerned about adding too many calories to an overweight horse’s diet, try soaking and offering teff forage pellets. Soak these forage or fiber sources at a ratio of 2 parts water to 1 part forage.
  3. Wetting down the long-stemmed hay you offer your horse can also boost water intake slightly.
  4. Flavoring your horse’s water can also encourage water intake, especially if you are traveling and have a picky drinker.
  5. Provide a salt block in your horse’s paddock or stall to help stimulate thirst.

Get Your Horse to Drink More Water During Winter Chart

Horses primarily eating hay will consume more water than those eating both hay and grain. Fiber increases the water holding capacity of the hindgut. Better quality hays, such as alfalfa, are typically higher in calories compared to grass hay. Other baled hay substitutes, such as forage cubes and pellets, can be fed to replace poor quality hay.

Standlee Premium Western Forage offers a wide variety of Alfalfa and Alfalfa mix products ranging from baled, long-stemmed forage, to cubes, pellets and chopped forage. Also available are Standlee Premium Smart Beet (beet pulp) shreds and pellets that increase the calorie content of the forage portion of the diet and are highly digestible.

If you have questions about how you can you to get your horse to drink more water during winter, please contact or visit J&J Hay Farms today.

By Dr. Tania Cubitt
Standlee Nutritional Expert – Performance Horse Nutrition