Archive for the ‘News&Update’ Category

Evaluating Hay Feeders for Horses

Thursday, February 25th, 2021

Evaluating Hay Feeders for HorsesEvaluating hay feeders for horses can help you reduce waste. As one of the most common forages fed to horses, hay can be offered on the ground. It is also fed in a net, or in some type of feeder. Hay is often scattered and trampled by horses, reducing the percentage that is consumed when it is fed from the ground. Nets and feeders are designed to keep hay available, dry, and contained so it can be eaten rather than wasted.

Various feeder types and designs have been developed for use with horses. A recent study, conducted by researchers at the University of Minnesota and supported by a grant from AQHA, was designed to compare hay waste among several square‐bale feeders used for outdoor feeding of adult horses. Feeder designs included a hay rack, a slat feeder, and a basket feeder. A control situation (hay fed on the ground) was also evaluated.

The Study:

Two feeders of each type were placed in separate outdoor paddocks. Twelve adult horses were divided into four groups of three horses. The groups were rotated through the four paddocks for seven-day periods. Two daily feeding of grass hay were provided, each containing half of an amount equal to 2.5% of the herd’s total body weight. Before each feeding, all uneaten hay left in the feeder and lying on the ground was collected and weighed, and the percentage of wasted hay was calculated.

Using a purchase value of $250 (USD) per ton of hay, the researchers determined the time required to equal the cost of each type of feeder with non-wasted hay. Efficiency of feeders was also compared to the no‐feeder control.

All feeders resulted in less hay waste compared with the no‐feeder control. Average hay waste levels were 1, 3, 5, and 13% for the slat, basket, rack, and no‐feeder control, respectively. The slat feeder was the most cost-effective option, paying for itself in nine months. The rack and basket feeders paid for themselves in 12 and 11 months, respectively. No injuries were observed from any of the small square‐bale feeders during the trial.

Results from this trial may help horse owners select hay feeders and may also assist in estimating how much hay should be purchased.

Interested in learning more about evaluating hay feeders for horses? Visit or call J & J Hay Farms for more information!

Article brought to you by Kentucky Equine Research.

Vitamins for Horses

Thursday, February 11th, 2021

Vitamins for HorsesVitamins are defined as organic substances that are necessary for the proper nutrition of plants and animals. Ingested in minute quantities, vitamins act as coenzymes and precursors of coenzymes in the regulation of many metabolic processes. Some vitamins must be provided by food, while others are produced within the body. Not all animals are able to produce the same vitamins, which is one reason feeds designed for one species are not necessarily suitable for another type of animal.

Horses need vitamins A, B, C, D, E, and K for optimal health. The quantities needed are small, but the effects are important. For some vitamins, too much in the horse’s diet is just as bad as too little. Most of the well-known commercial horse feeds supply vitamins in the proper quantities, taking the guesswork out of feeding horses.

Vitamin A and its precursor, beta-carotene, are supplied by ingested material. It is one of the fat-soluble vitamins, meaning that it is easily stored in the body. Horses get vitamin A from eating fresh grass and good-quality hay. Any that is not used immediately is stored in the horse’s liver, and this supply is drawn upon during the winter months when pastures are dormant. Vitamin A is used to support eye function, reproduction, and the health of bones, skin, and muscles. A diet deficient in vitamin A can cause reproductive problems, increased risk of infection, defects in bone and muscle growth, a dull hair coat, and eye problems like tearing and night blindness. Too much vitamin A produces some of the same signs as well as weight loss and neurologic problems.

What we refer to as vitamin B is actually a complex of several substances including niacin, thiamine, biotin, cobalamine, folacin, riboflavin, and pantothenic acid. Because vitamin B is one of the water-soluble vitamins, extra supplies do not build up in the horse’s body. This means that new supplies must be added regularly, but toxicity isn’t a problem because excess B compounds are excreted instead of being stored. B vitamins are made in the horse’s body either from organic compounds in other foods, or by the microbes that live in the horse’s gut. Horses on a normal diet usually have adequate supplies of all the B complex substances, and toxicity has not been reported.

Another water-soluble nutrient is vitamin C, or ascorbic acid. Humans drink citrus juices to obtain vitamin C, but the horse’s liver is able to synthesize this nutrient from glucose. Vitamin C is necessary for proper formation of bones, teeth, and collagen, and is also a powerful antioxidant that protects cell membranes from the damaging action of free radicals. Older horses and those that have been sick or under stress may benefit from a bit more dietary vitamin C. There’s little danger of oversupplementing because this vitamin is poorly absorbed from the digestive tract, and excess amounts are excreted in the urine.

Vitamin D is a fat-soluble vitamin produced in the skin when horses are exposed to sunlight. It’s also found in hay, but decreases as the hay is stored. It is important for proper skeletal development in young horses and helps to regulate calcium and phosphorus levels in mature animals. Too little vitamin D leads to bone deformities, while oversupplementation can cause stiffness of joints and muscles, deposition of calcium in the horse’s internal organs, and even death.

Like vitamins A and D, vitamin E is present in grass and fresh hay, but levels decline as the hay ages. Alfalfa hay is a better source than grass hay. This fat-soluble vitamin has important antioxidant qualities and also supports healthy function of the horse’s nervous, immune, and reproductive systems. Horses that don’t get enough vitamin E may show muscle trembling, weakness, and atrophy. Equine motor neuron disease, or EMND, is caused by a vitamin E deficiency and is characterized by increased recumbency and loss of muscle tone. Horses appear to be tolerant of high levels of this vitamin.

Needed for proper blood clotting, vitamin K is manufactured in the horse’s hindgut and is also ingested in hay. Under normal conditions, it’s rare for a horse to develop a deficiency, but intestinal infections that disrupt the bacterial population of the gut can compromise production of vitamin K. Grazing sweet clover can also lead to a low level of vitamin K, producing signs like internal bleeding, pale mucous membranes, and an irregular heartbeat.

As grazers, horses naturally meet their vitamin requirement by ingesting grass or hay. Owners should allow as much turnout on good quality pasture as possible and provide hay that has not been stored for more than a few months. Most fortified commercial grain products are formulated to contain the correct levels of the vitamins horses need to consume. Horses that don’t need the calories in grain-rich feeds can look for a balancer pellet that provides vitamins and minerals in a low-calorie formulation. It’s important to avoid oversupplementation of vitamins, so owners should ask an equine nutritionist to evaluate their horses’ diets before adding supplements. The nutritionist can advise whether extra vitamins are needed for some classes of horses, such as those in extreme exercise programs.

Interested in learning more? Visit or call J & J Hay Farms for more information!

Article brought to you by Kentucky Equine Research.

Hay Intake Study Shows Horses’ Preferences

Thursday, January 28th, 2021

These questions were addressed in a study designed by a group of researchers at California State University.

For the study, eight mature mares went through a two-week adaptation period during which they were housed in individual pens that were partially covered by a roof. Each horse received a flake of alfalfa (lucerne) hay and a flake of wheat hay in the morning. In the evening, each horse received a flake of teff hay and a flake of oat hay. After the adaptation period, the horses were paired in four groups. Horses in each group were fed one type of hay for a week, beginning with an amount equal to 2.2% of the horse’s body weight. More hay was given if a horse consumed all its hay during the feeding period. Unconsumed hay was removed and weighed, and voluntary consumption was calculated. The different types of hay were analyzed for nutrient composition.

Alfalfa hay was consumed in the greatest quantity by all horses. Wheat and teff hay were eaten at a lower rate than alfalfa, and oat hay was eaten in the smallest quantity. Chemical composition, and therefore nutrient value, was not a good predictor of voluntary intake. Wheat and oat hay had the same chemical composition but horses ate more wheat hay, possibly because the wheat hay contained more grain.

Overall, hay consumption increased through each week of the study, but alfalfa was the only hay for which consumption met the horses’ requirement for energy. Alfalfa and teff hay were eaten in large enough quantities to meet the requirements for protein, lysine, calcium, and phosphorus, but the consumed amounts of oat and wheat hay did not meet these requirements.

Hay of any type will have a range of quality and palatability based on stage of maturity when cut, soil type, rainfall, and curing conditions. Just as each type of hay has a different nutritional profile, horses vary slightly in their requirement for energy and nutrients. Horse owners should buy clean, fresh hay with no signs of mold; store it indoors with good ventilation to prevent deterioration; provide hay to stabled horses several times a day; monitor horses for weight loss or gain; and feed grain products to meet energy demands that are not supplied by an all-forage diet.

If horses refuse to eat hay when it is offered, the hay may be slightly moldy or of poor quality, or the horse may have health issues (sore mouth, gastric ulcers, low-grade colic) that can be diagnosed and treated by a veterinarian.

Would you like more information about hay? Contact us at J & J Hay Farms by clicking here!

Article brought to you by KER.

Minimizing Wastage in Round Hay Bales Stored Outdoors

Thursday, January 21st, 2021

Minimizing wastage in round hay bales stored outdoors has many advantages. Hay for horses traditionally comes in two forms: square bales (usually rectangular) that weight about 40 to 50 pounds, or larger and much heavier round bales. Round bales have advantages and disadvantages compared to smaller square bales. Cost, availability, and the need for less covered storage may be good points, while detractions include necessity of a tractor to move the bales and probability of having some hay wasted during both storage and feeding.

As much as 35% of the hay in an improperly stored round bale can be lost because of degradation from weather and contact with the ground, according to an article appearing in the September 2014 University of Minnesota Horse Newsletter.  The article offered the following tips for storing round hay bales so that waste can be kept to a minimum::

  • Dense, tightly compacted round bales will keep their shape well and therefore have less surface area contacting the ground.
  • Round bales secured with plastic twine or netting generally have less dry matter loss than those baled with traditional string twine.
  • Round bales stored outside should be placed on wooden pallets or a raised pad of at least four inches of coarse rock. Bales should not be stored under trees.
  • Round bales should be placed end to end in lines at least three feet apart. This protects the ends of bales and allows airflow and sunlight to help keep bales dry. Avoid stacking bales, as this traps moisture.
  • Protecting round bales with heavy plastic tarps or storing the bales indoors can significantly cut losses due to weather and moisture.

Would you like more information about minimizing wastage in round hay bales stored outdoors? Contact us at J & J Hay Farms by clicking here!

Article brought to you by KER.

 

Keep Stored Hay in Good Condition

Thursday, January 14th, 2021

Keep Stored Hay in Good Condition

To stored hay in good condition, pay particular attention to the conditions where the bales are stored. Choose a spot that is dry and well-ventilated. If possible, make several smaller stacks of bales rather than one large stack; this allows air to reach more hay and minimizes the chance of mold formation. Storing hay in a covered building is best, but if no shelter is available, bales can be placed on pallets or frames that are raised four to six inches off the ground.

Cover outdoor hay with plastic or another protective material, but don’t wrap it so completely than air can’t circulate around the bales. Tarps or other opaque covers will keep the hay from being degraded by sunlight. Bales that are stored indoors can also benefit from being loosely covered to protect them from dust and animal droppings that can spread diseases to horses.

Feed the oldest hay first, mixing it with small amounts of newer hay and gradually increasing portions of newer bales until you use all the older supply. This is especially important if you are changing not just the cutting but the type of hay, as in switching from grass hay to alfalfa (lucerne) hay. A gradual change allows the microbial population in the horse’s hindgut to adapt to the new type of hay, avoiding gastrointestinal upsets.

Be sure hay was sufficiently dry before it was baled. Hay that is too damp is likely to mold, producing heat in the process that may be sufficient to cause a fire. Inspect each bale as it is fed, discarding any hay that is obviously moldy or has a musty or burned odor. A bale that feels significantly heavier than other bales in a particular batch of hay has a good chance of being damp and moldy.

Would you like more information about hay diets? Contact us at J & J Farms by clicking here!

Article brought to you by KER.

Color of Horse Hay: What Does It Mean?

Thursday, January 7th, 2021
Color of Horse HayThe color of horse hay is very useful in determining the quality of the hay. Methods of curing and storing hay greatly influence its appropriateness for horses.

The key to properly cured hay lies predominantly in moisture content. For best results, hay should not be baled until there is less than 20% moisture. Hay baled too wet might mold, heat, and pose a fire risk. Conversely, hay baled too dry might lose its nutritional value through broken or fallen leaves. Rain is the bane of a hay harvester’s existence, and it can cause extensive nutrient losses, especially to vitamins A and E, protein, and certain carbohydrates.

Though the color of hay is not the end-all, be-all method for determining hay quality (that would be forage analysis by a laboratory), color is a useful indicator of nutritive value.

Green:

Without question, the most desirable color of hay is bright green. Greenness indicates the hay was not subjected to any adverse conditions during curing or storage, thereby suggesting the forage is nutritious and free of molds. Green hay is often rife with carotene, a precursor to vitamin A, and vitamin E.

Yellow:

If hay is yellow, there is a likelihood that it was overmature when cut or was exposed to rain during the curing process. If the hay was rained on, it is not only susceptible to leaching of nutrients but also mold proliferation, which can cause gastrointestinal and respiratory problems such as colic, coughing, or heaves. In other instances, yellowing might be due to sun-bleaching, which occurs when stored hay is exposed to direct sunlight. Sun-bleaching decreases carotene content and palatability of the discolored hay. Sun damage usually affects only the outside of bales, so much of the hay in these bales is probably salvageable.

Brown:

Nutritious hay is rarely, if ever, brown. If a tobacco-like odor accompanies extremely off-colored hay, this is likely due to overheating during storage caused by excessive moisture and fungal growth. Palatability of low-quality brown hay is usually poor. Due to the predisposition to mold and unpalatability, this hay should not be fed to horses.

Not all horses require bright green, nutrient-dense hay. In fact, equine nutritionists are adamant that forage selection be based on individual needs. An overweight pony does not need to stand knee-deep in fluorescent alfalfa (lucerne) for two-thirds of the day, and a thinnish lactating mare needs more than last year’s yellowing meadow grass to keep her in milk.

Other factors also affect hay quality including plant type (grasses versus legumes), stage of maturity, leaf-to-stem ratio, and presence of mold, weeds, and other foreign material.

Would you like more information about hay diets? Contact us at J & J Farms by clicking here!

Article brought to you by KER.

Feeding Old Hay to Horses

Thursday, December 31st, 2020

Feeding Old Hay to HorsesAn age-old question: when is feeding old hay to horses O.K.?

Hay doesn’t come stamped with an expiration date. Sometimes it’s hard to know when to use it and when to toss it. Consider these points:

  • If the hay was of good-quality when harvested and stored in a dry place with sufficient airflow, hay is likely suitable for consumption for two to three years.
  • Keep in mind that hay, even premium forage, loses much of its vitamin content in the first few months of storage. “Hay stored in hot environments, such as haylofts, can lose half to three-quarters of its vitamin E content over a three-month period,” said Kathleen Crandell, Ph.D., nutritionist with Kentucky Equine Research (KER).
  • Do not expect two- or three-year-old hay to contribute significantly to vitamin A nutrition. “About 75% of vitamin A disappears within the first 24 hours of cutting and then loses another 10% monthly. Because forage is rich in vitamin A, this is not a concern for hay fed in the first year or so following harvesting,” said Crandell.
  • Because vitamin D is more stable than vitamins A and E, hay loses very little of vitamin D in storage, according to Crandell.

What’s the best way to handle nutrient deficiencies if old hay is fed?

If horses are consuming green pasture and a well-fortified concentrate, there is no need to worry about the vitamin and mineral content of whatever old, well-preserved hay horses may be nibbling on. If, however, the hay is fed as the sole feedstuff, changes to the diet should be considered, as the horse will not be consuming sufficient vitamins and minerals for top-notch health.

One of three feeding scenarios usually unfolds:

  • A fortified concentrate should be fed if horses require additional calories on top of the hay to maintain body weight. Feeds are available for every life stage, and an appropriate one should be purchased and fed according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This might be the case with horses that are in moderate to heavy work and horses known to be hard keepers.
  • If horses hold optimal body condition on hay alone and do not have elevated protein requirements (such as mature horses at maintenance or those light work), a vitamin and mineral supplement such as Micro-Max from KER would be appropriate. In Australia, look for Gold Pellet or Nutrequin SE.
  • If horses require protein as well as minerals and vitamins for optimal health and performance, which is usually the case with easy keepers who serve as broodmares (barren or early gestation) or riding horses in near-daily work, consider feeding a balancer pellet.

Under no circumstances should old hay be fed if it has been compromised by dust, moisture, mold, or foreign objects. Undisturbed hay may also have been infiltrated by nesting rodents or wildlife. If raccoons, opossums, or rodents have run amuck in the loft, consider chucking the hay, as it could harbor disease-causing organisms, including those that cause equine protozoal myeloencephalitis (EPM).

Would you like more information about hay diets? Contact us at J & J Farms by clicking here!

Article brought to you by KER.

Moldy Hay for Horses: Causes and Avoidance

Thursday, December 24th, 2020

Avoid moldy hay for horsesCultivating good-quality hay is no easy task and is dependent on cooperative weather for optimal success. Hay farmers must keep a keen eye on plant growth, the moisture content at harvest, and other baling considerations in order to avoid moldy hay for horses. Mold forms on hay because of excessive moisture, which is why it is so critical to harvest hay under the most conducive conditions and then store it properly once baled.

Moisture content is a crucial measure when it comes to hay production. Once hay is cut in the field, it needs to dry. Length of drying time varies based on geographical region and weather. Humidity or rain will slow this process, leaving the crop vulnerable to mold and fungus. If hay is baled at 12-14% moisture or less, the likelihood of mold is reduced.

If a preservative is not used on cut hay, mold will grow if moisture concentration above about 14%-15%. In addition to nutrient loss, mold growth produces heat. If moldy hay is stored in tight stacks or in areas of poor ventilation, there is a risk for spontaneous combustion. For this reason, all hay should be stacked in well-ventilated areas, with an alternating pattern that allows airflow between bales.

Common molds that grow on hay include Aspergillus, Fusarium, Penicillium, and Rhizopus, among others. Molds generate spores that can irritate respiratory tissues, contributing to recurrent airway obstruction (RAO), also known as heaves. RAO can lead to impaired performance due to difficulty breathing. Special attention should be given to the hay being fed to a horse who already suffers from RAO to avoid additional complications. Moldy hay can also cause colic.

Botulism is a concern for horses consuming hay, particularly large round bales. If animals or carcasses of small animals, such as mice, are caught up in the bale during harvesting, they can infect the hay with Clostridium botulinum bacteria as they decay. Contaminated hay can cause illness to the horse that consumes it. Symptoms of botulism in horses include weakness, muscle tremors, inability to swallow, loss of muscle tone in the tail, paralysis, and incoordination. Horses left untreated for or severely affected by botulism may die if the bacteria paralyze the respiratory system. Ask your vet about the botulism vaccine if your horse consumes round bales.

Proper storage is a critical component of hay-feeding. “Hay should be stored in a dry, well-ventilated area off of the ground,” advised Kathleen Crandell, Ph.D., a nutritionist with Kentucky Equine Research. “Avoid placing tarps tightly around hay, which will prevent moisture from escaping. Don’t stack hay too high, and be sure to leave some space between each bale to allow for airflow.” These techniques will help minimize the risk of mold growth in hay.

Further, no matter which variety or cutting of hay you have in the barn, take the time to inspect it prior to feeding. Hay may look perfectly fine on the outside, but it is possible for mold to be growing on the inside, according to Crandell.

While mold may be difficult to detect visually, an unusual odor usually accompanies mold growth. If hay is dusty or smells musty, do not feed it. Any black or gray mold is a sure sign of spoiled hay and potential health risk to the horse. Work with your hay supplier to replace unsuitable hay bales, and talk to your veterinarian about preventative measures for maintaining the horse’s health.

Hay is a staple in the diets of many horses. For those horses that do not receive a commercial fortified concentrate with their hay, owners should consider a vitamin and mineral supplement, such as Micro-Max (Gold Pellet, Nutrequin, or Perform in Australia). A well-formulated vitamin and mineral supplement will round out the nutritional needs of horses on all-forage diets. “The use of a vitamin and mineral supplement or a ration balancer to fill in the nutritional gaps formed by feeding only pasture or hay is an easy, though oft overlooked, management strategy that ensures optimal health,” said Crandell.

Would you like more information about switching to hay diets? Contact us at J & J Farms by clicking here!

Article brought to you by KER.

Switching to Hay? Remember Vitamin E

Thursday, December 17th, 2020
As autumn shifts to winter, or summer droughts begin to set in, horse owners in many climates must provide horses with an appropriate alternative forage to fulfill fiber requirements. In most cases, this involves switching to hay, haylage, or hay cubes.

Alternative Hays for Horses

Thursday, November 19th, 2020

Alternative Hays for HorsesCommon hays fed to horses include various pure grass hays, mixed grass hays, and legume hays such as alfalfa (lucerne) and clover. If these hays are not available, horse owners may have to choose alternative hays from less traditional hay types. While these other forages are usually suitable for horses, some have associated risks.

Foxtail or German millet can be used for horse forage. If foxtail millet hay is fed to horses, additional calcium supplementation will be required as it is high in oxalates, substances that make it difficult for the horse to absorb the calcium in its diet. Some reports show that horses grazing millet hay may have lameness and joint swelling. Some pearl millet reportedly has an alkaloid buildup that can induce toxicity in cattle. Horses may also react to these alkaloids because they are susceptible to alkaloid toxicity syndromes. All millets can accumulate nitrates, which in grazing or haying millets can reach toxic proportions. Nitrate can be controlled somewhat by reducing the amount of nitrogen per application and increasing the number of applications. German millet can cause oral lesions.

Sorghum grasses include sudangrass, johnsongrass, hybrid forage sorghums, and grain sorghums. Here we consider all classes of forage sudangrasses and associated hybrids the same. In reality, there may be some without toxicity problems.

Sudangrass in the green growth stages can cause a urinary tract disease in horses called cystitis syndrome or cystitis/ataxia (staggering). The disease is irreversible and is believed to be associated with low levels of cyanide (prussic acid) in sudangrass. Piper sudangrass is a variety low in prussic acid and may be a good choice to minimize this problem. Hay produced from sudangrasses will not likely cause cystitis/ataxia syndrome because prussic acid dissipates as hay cures. Sorghum pasture can also cause a problem for pregnant mares in the first three months of pregnancy, presumably because of prussic acid content; mares may abort. Foals can be born with contracted tendons.

Sweet-stemmed sudangrasses and other sorghums that are relatively high in sugar also cause a laxative reaction in horses. If it is necessary to use sudangrasses, be sure to use a nonsweet, starchy type and try to use other roughages as part of the ration.

Like sudangrass, johnsongrass can be high in prussic acid (cyanide), which can occur in any green plant and especially stressed ones. Rapid growth after a drought, plants stressed by drought or cold, and plants at and soon after frost are especially hazardous. Prussic acid does not occur in dangerous amounts in properly cured, dry hay. Prussic acid poisoning is not as severe a problem in horses as in cattle, but it can occur. Johnsongrass can also have a high nitrate content.

All types of sorghum contain cyanogenic glycosides, although there is quite a bit of variation among species and varieties. Some types of sorghum have been associated with poisoning horses in Australia. If horses are grazing sorghum-dominant pastures or if they are fed hay containing sorghum species, they may have an increased risk of chronic cyanide poisoning. A higher risk is associated with grazing young sorghum-dominant pastures affected by frost or storms and sorghum hay that has not been cured. The risk of poisoning is generally associated with accumulation of toxic levels of cyanogenic glycosides, resulting in chronic neurotoxicosis.

Pea straw has low digestibility and quality, but would be usable provided it is mixed up to 50:50 with a good-quality grass hay or legume hay.

Barley hay is suitable as an alternative forage for horses. The average analysis of barley hay shows a relatively low level of energy and protein, with similar calcium and phosphorus values as oaten hay. Try to select barley hay that has been cut at the milky dough stage, so the grain and the barley awns are not fully developed. When feeding barley hay, be aware that awns from the heads may catch in a horse’s teeth or cause ulcers in the horse’s mouth. This means that you should only feed green, immature barley hay as the awns haven’t had the chance to dry and become hardened. While oaten hay can be quite golden, barley hay should be green. Oaten hay is considered to be more palatable than barley hay and is probably the first choice for this reason, but barley hay can be a useful hay when a horse doesn’t need the extra energy and protein in alfalfa (lucerne) and a grass hay is needed.

Canola hay is not recommended as it has low digestibility and questionable quality and usually is treated with a heavy spray that the horses will ingest. Triticale and wheaten hays are usually acceptable provided they are cut early and do not have an abundance of awns or grain in the heads. Vetch hay, a legume, is also an acceptable forage.

Would you like help evaluating your horse’s diet? Contact us at J & J Farms by clicking here!

Article brought to you by KER.